A Cultural Perspective Through The Lens Of Travel

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Explore Song Wat – Bangkok’s Unique Blend Of Heritage & Modernity

Song Wat has an inexplicable magic of character and space. It harbors a sense of tranquility and harmony rarely felt in Bangkok. The neighbourhood, cloaked in century old Sino Portuguese nostalgia features a cohort of contemporary and eclectic mix of local establishments.

Where Heritage and Modernity Collides

Song Wat harbours an inexplicable sense of magic rarely felt in Bangkok. Cloaked in century old Sino Portuguese nostalgia, this enclave is set against a backdrop of architectures featuring the most intricate of wall motifs, bold corinthian columns, fine stucco art and mesmerizing stained glass panels. Its streets, in contrast, are dotted with an eclectic mix of contemporary establishments.

From modern coffee roasters competing to produce the best of grade brews, a Michelin star fine dining restaurant curating the best of dishes inspired by the Thai-Chinese diaspora, traditional eateries with secret recipes handed down from past generations and handcrafted desert cafes built on food sustainability, Song Wat reflects a powerful blend of heritage preservation and a curiously thriving retail economy, held together through the tapestry of culture, history and its own endearing community.

A Stretch Of Heritage Penned Down By The King

Today, the invigorating aroma and tangy notes of herbs and spices from yesteryears still linger in what was once Bangkok’s oldest trading post. It all started with a raging fire. The year was 1906, when King Rama penned down a new road in Chinatown for a massive reconstruction right after the fire.

Song Wat was that stretch of road penned down by the late King. This new stretch of heritage eventually prospered to become a successful trading post and home to traders and migrants, spanning across different ethnic groups seeking out a lucrative fortune trading herbs and spices. The buildings and architectures today are reminiscence of its old glory and the extensive cultural exchanges at that time.

Potong, the brightest and shinest star in Thailand’s gastronomy turning the tides in uncertainties on Song Wat grounds

There were big plans for Song Wat. The planned construction of two new MRT subways and glitzy door openings of luxury hoteliers along the enviable Chao Prayao riverfront were all ready to transform the area into a promising consumer hub to revive an already dwindling economy. However, a series of unfortunate twist and turns of economic events following the COVID pandemic not only halted all developments in its tracks but threw all signs of livelihoods down the cliff.

But who would have thought, a female chef would set up shop, against all odds and becoming one of the brightest and shiniest star in gastronomy.

Tucked along a back alley and behind a rustic Chinese shutter gate, a white neon sign, POTONG illuminates in the quiet of the dark. This gem, an upscale glass front fine dining establishment is a meticulously restored 5- storey shophouse with 120 years of history spanning over 4 generations.

Originally a Chinese traditional medicine dispensary hall, POTONG is now a 1- star Michelin restaurant helmed by the 4th generation descendant of the family line.

POTONG’s culinary approach is inventive. It continues to garner nods from the gastronomical world through its unique experimentation with flavors while curating a unique sensory experience transcending through time and memories, reflecting the enduring history of the Thai Chinese diaspora.

This unique blend of “heritage meets modernity” earned Song Wat its reputation as the World’s top 40 coolest neighbourhoods according to TIME OUT.

Song Wat’s success is at a time when the rinse and repeat formulas in an overcrowded and neck breaking retail landscape has worn out business owners.

Affluent consumers are seeking out novel experiences. Business owners are aligned towards sustainability. The Song Wat’s preposition for the adaptive use of conserved heritage space offers both, enhancing its historical and cultural value.

This change has opened up unprecedented collaboration between old and new businesses. A second generation habitant, also an owner to a traditional grains store has started to procure their grains regularly to some dessert cafes a few streets away. With digital technology, they are able to scale their businesses by expanding distribution channels beyond Bangkok.

Having no successors willingly to take over the many old businesses located on Song Wat streets used to be a huge concern. This too has change with the opening up of numerous doors for opportunities. Along with the seismic mindset shift towards local entrepreneurship, the younger generation are coming back home.

A Coherent Community Held By A Common Thread Of Culture & History

Guide books, detailed with maps for distribution to promote local businesses were created by the Song Wat community. Events were organized to increase foot traffic. Press and media were invited. People are taking notice. Song Wat is thriving.

A walk further down the alleys, housed some of the oldest residential establishments, schools and places of worship. In the quiet of the dark, Bangkok’s oldest Chinese shrine sprung to life with the clinking of glasses chatters and laughter.

The spacious central courtyard, a long dining table adorned with fancy glasswares and a cornucopia of Chinese delicacies stretching all the way towards the shrine entrance.

Perched above the entire length of the table was an eye catching centerpiece of a traditional dragon prop suspended mid-air on poles, elaborately embellished with red drapes and paper lanterns. It was the anniversary of a 200 years old Chinese temple. Everyone was here to commemorate the special occasion. Held by a common thread of culture and history, a sense of place and belonging was evident in the atmosphere. It was a jubilant occasion.

This unique art of ingenuity has allowed Song Wat to carved out a thriving trajectory of its own. A sense of urban harmony in Bangkok’s time-worn patinas, where heritage and modernity rightfully collides, created for and by its own people.